Seems like I’m not the only one to have fun putting together a Yardmaster shed. A commenter on my previous post on our wonderful green monster of a shed, (it’s over a year old now and still standing, so we must have done something right!), lost his destructions and so, being the kind soul that I am, I’ve scanned mind in and uploaded them. The content has been OCR’ed so it is a searchable PDF.

They cover building:

  • Model 108 GEY – Green (what we have)
  • Model 1010 GEY – Green
  • Model 108 ZGEY – Silver
  • Model 1010 ZGEY – Silver

Destructions download:

By Paul

17 thought on “Yardmaster Shed Instructions”
  1. Bought a Yardmaster shed second hand, think it’s about 8 x 6 or 7ft, not sure of the size as it was dissasembled, with no instructions. Though yardmaster seemed willing to send a copy, nothing happened. So many thanks for these posted instructions. They’ll allow me to identify the parts and get it built at last.

    Kind Regards, Myke.

  2. […] Pauked com Yardmaster Shed Instructions Posted by root 23 hours ago ( They cover building model 108 gey green what we have model 1010 gey green bought a yardmaster shed second hand think it about 8 x 6 or 7ft not sure of the size as it was leave a comment name required e mail required not be published powered by wordpress b Discuss  |  Bury |  News | pauked com yardmaster shed instructions […]

  3. Cheers for this, just realised I have no idea where the instructions are and I haven’t put the doors on yet. The concrete will be fully hardened in a day or two so it’ll be finishing all the loose ends time.

  4. Here’s an email\review i sent to yardmaster:

    As a keen DIY’er I’m amazed at all the 5 star reviews! Maybe it was the price that had people overlooking the shortcomings of this somewhat poorly made shed, this review is for an Yardmaster Apex green shiplap shed, 4 x 3 meters, which came in 3 flat packs.

    1. The triangular metal ‘gables’ were not properly formed…(how could Q.A. let this pass?) the edges were not square and had to be bashed square, also the ends were badly formed.
    2. Even though I tried my best to get the base square many of the pilot holes didn’t line up, I had to drill dozens of fresh holes. It would have been a lot easier with larger clearance holes with larger washers and screws. Are you listening yardmaster?
    3. Each roof cross beam is made of 4 thin sheets of steel but they don’t fit snugly together and when bolted were crooked and misshapen, causing the roof to droop, with sharp edges too.
    4. The height! Okay of you are a dwarf but why cant they make it, say, 12” higher, I’m 5’10” and have to stoop at the edges, I already plan to raise the shed on breeze blocks and make a new door.
    5. The instructions are dreadful! It took me ages to work out some of the drawings, which look nothing like the actual parts. It’s all pictures and hardly any words; I could have made a much better manual myself over a weekend! MORE DETAIL PLEASE!!!
    6. The self-tapping screws were a bit small and fiddly; they should all have been the same as the larger ones supplied for the end gutters.
    7. The transparent roof panels are very narrow, not much light there!
    8. Many formed pieces are not fully formed and square! Much bending into shape required! Tut tut tut! The doors are like biscuit tin lids!

    1. Yes, the price. Looks nice too.
    2. During early construction I was really worried at how thin and wobbly the wall sheets were
    3. (Please avoid windy weather!) However, as the roof panels were screwed down I noticed a REMARKABLE increase in overall strength and rigidity, which was very satisfying!
    4. The roof panels were much easier to erect than I had anticipated. (Alas many holes did not align which meant much drilling.)

    FUTURE PLANS in the spring
    1. Get a large can of builders foam to fill in the voids in the roof. And other nooks and crannies, and any potential leak holes.
    2. Raise the shed on a ‘skirting’ of breezeblocks, this will shorten the doors but I’ll ditch them and make one big wooden door.
    3. Spray interior walls with insulating foam (this will deaden the sound which is like a giant steel drum!) put up 9mm ply walls for further insulation and strength, also the ply walls will be able to take all the racks and shelves I have planned
    4. I’ll have to cover the cross beams with protective foam or sooner or later I’ll cut my head!
    5. Put in a big transparent roof panel.

    All in all though I’m rather pleased with my new woodworking shop.

  5. having a real job with hanging the doors on a green and silver 6×8. Actually got them hanging, confused about the bottom where they should presumabl be on gliders, as it is, they are loose and can be pushed in from the outside, really rickety. Surely I have done something wrong? Instructions are practically non existent on the door hanging.

  6. FOUND – have found that the instructions for most of the Yardmaster range can be downloaded from the French sellers at
    Go to the tab “Abris de Jardin et Garages” and select “Abris de Jardin Metal”.
    Select the model you require and scroll down the product page to find the tab “Fiche Technique” . There should be a red link like
    Notice montage abri de jardin 63GEYZ Télécharger
    This will take you straight to the pdf (multilanguage)
    Here are the current urls for a few GEY sheds

  7. And free heat!
    Regarding insulation, think about removable panels on the south-facing side. My yardmaster (the pale green shiplap type) is amazingly warm on a sunny winter’s day despite no insulation or draught-proofing. I use it for storage in plastic boxes and for drying the washing on a camping airer – no wood or metal to worry about – so it needs the ventilation. It was a complete nightmare to assemble (my science degree was no help) so never again! It is sheltered by a nearby garage but gets sun along one long side. If I painted it black it would be even hotter! I sit there with my tea to shelter and warm up while gardening in winter. It looks good and works well so I’m very happy with it. If it were nearer the house – or if I could ever face building another one – I’d pipe all that solar warm air indoors!

  8. I have recently bought a yard master – 10 * 8 however you find that its really only internal space 9.5*7.5, I agree with everything you have said good and bad however I followed the instructions to the letter being very competent in DIY I found this irritating to say the least. I build the base, I laid my damp course, I have erected it, thank the lord that the weather has been nice, for all tense and purposes it looks great. However here is the question, I have realised I need to seal all those little holes around the bottom of the frame to stop the water seeping in (bucket of water test) and pooling onto the ground sheet under the floating floor, great it works, however and here comes the bug bear – the doors attract the rain water which flows into the gutter underneath and then flows onto the ground sheet, apart from drilling holes and inserting small pipes to let the water flow out into the front. I will defiantly be insulating it though – I do now wish I had just bought a wooden shed, there is a good reason why they have been around for years.

  9. Anyone know if you can buy an extra set of just wall panels for a 13×10 yardmaster?
    Just an idea to make mine taller by raising the roof by 50% with the extra panels overlapping current ones. Think i’m getting a dent in my head from the door frame haha

  10. Hi there. I am nearing the end of yardmaster 8×6 shed.i am having trouble as to the foof panels.i placed the first on as instructions and the clear one next ,then another panel,but the last one does not align anywhere near the pre drilled holes.should I drill my own holes,or do you think I have erected them wrong?I ask you,as it seems you have some experience of yRdmaster sheds.Thanks in advance for any help.

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